The story of Ciabatta - a very short history
Ciabatta as we know it is a modern invention (early 1980s), Italian rustic breads with similar texture and structure were made long before commercial yeast or stand mixers — using natural fermentation, strong hands, and time.
Wait — Ciabatta is modern?
Yes! Ciabatta was invented in 1982 by Arnaldo Cavallari in Adria, Veneto (Italy), as a response to the popularity of French baguettes. He called it “ciabatta polesana” — “slipper from Polesine” — due to its flat, wide shape.
But traditional Italian bakers were making high-hydration, airy breads long before then — just under different names.
So how would a pre-modern ciabatta-like bread be made?
1. Leavening: Natural Sourdough (Lievito Madre)
Before chemical/commercial yeast, bakers used a natural starter: a mix of flour and water fermented with wild yeast and lactobacilli.
“Lievito madre” or “pasta acida” was common in Italy.
It gave the bread a light tang, and built structure over time.
2. Mixing: By hand
Doughs were very wet (70–80% hydration or more), requiring:
A wide wooden trough or bowl
Strong hands and lots of stretch & fold
Long resting/autolyse periods to let gluten form passively
3. Bulk Fermentation: Long and slow
Typically 8–12 hours at cool ambient temperatures
Multiple stretch-and-folds during rest
Dough became extensible, full of air pockets
4. Shaping: Minimal handling
The dough was scraped onto a floured surface, roughly divided, and gently stretched — never kneaded at this stage
Left to proof in linen cloths (couche), then baked on stone
5. Baking: Stone hearth + steam
Baked in wood-fired ovens
Steam created via water tossed on the oven floor or hot pans to get the crackly crust and open crumb