Fresh Porcini, Cèpes, Ceps

Fresh porcini, or cèpes as they are called in France, are among the most highly prized wild mushrooms. Their firm texture, nutty aroma and rich, earthy flavour make them quite unlike any cultivated variety. The caps are chestnut-brown, smooth and slightly sticky when fresh, while the stems are thick and pale with a dense, meaty feel. Good specimens are solid and white inside, never spongy or discoloured.
In the kitchen, porcini are at their best when treated simply. Sliced and grilled with olive oil and sea salt, they take on a satisfying chew, almost like meat. They are equally at home in a creamy risotto, where their flavour permeates the rice, or tossed with tagliatelle, garlic and parsley for a quick supper. Their depth of taste means they can carry a dish almost on their own.
Porcini are also versatile in combination. A few slices add luxury to an omelette or frittata, while their juices enrich sauces and stews. Because they lose water as they cook, it is best to fry them quickly over a high heat to avoid sogginess.
Fresh porcini have a short season, usually late summer into autumn, depending on rainfall and temperature. When available, they should be used promptly, though they will keep for a day or two in a paper bag. For many cooks, their arrival signals the true flavour of autumn.
Porcini Risotto
Classic Italian style with shallots, carnaroli rice, white wine, and vegetable stock.
Fresh porcini sautéed in butter, then folded through near the end.
Finish with Parmesan, a knob of butter, and parsley.
Grilled Porcini with Olive Oil & Sea Salt
Slice large porcini caps thickly.
Brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper.
Grill or griddle until golden and smoky.
Serve with rocket, lemon wedges, and shaved Parmesan.
Tagliatelle with Fresh Porcini
Sauté porcini in butter, olive oil, and garlic.
Toss with fresh tagliatelle, parsley, and a splash of pasta water.
Optionally enrich with a little cream or mascarpone.
Porcini & Potato Bake (Gratin de Cèpes et Pommes de Terre)
Thinly slice potatoes and porcini.
Layer in a baking dish with cream, garlic, thyme, and Parmesan.
Bake until golden and bubbling.
Porcini & Herb Omelette (or Frittata)
Fry porcini with shallots and herbs (thyme, parsley).
Pour in beaten eggs, cook gently, finish under the grill.
Serve warm with a green salad.
Porcini Pizza
Instructions
Base
- Use a thin, crisp base (Neapolitan-style works beautifully).
- If you have a very hot oven (wood-fired or 250 °C / 480 °F+)Bake the pizza raw with all toppings.The base, cheese, and porcini all cook together in 7–10 minutes.This is the classic Neapolitan approach — light, blistered crust.If your oven is more modest (200–220 °C / 390–430 °F) then it's often better to pre-bake the base for 5–7 minutes.Then add cheese, porcini, and other toppings, and finish for another 10–12 minutes.This avoids a soggy middle and ensures the base cooks through.
- Brush lightly with olive oil and garlic rather than drowning in tomato sauce. A thin layer of passata can work, but many Italian recipes skip it for porcini.
Cheese
- Fresh mozzarella: mild, creamy, melts well without overwhelming.
- A scattering of Pecorino or Parmesan after baking enhances the earthy depth.
Porcini
- Slice fresh porcini and sauté briefly in olive oil with a little garlic and thyme before topping (removes excess moisture and intensifies flavour).
- Heat a little olive oil in a pan.Add sliced porcini with a pinch of salt.Sauté 2–3 minutes over medium-high heat, tossing once, until they release a little moisture and start to take on colour.Remove from the pan and let them cool slightly before placing on the pizza.
- Spread evenly, don’t overload — they’re rich.
Accents
- A few sprigs of fresh thyme or parsley added after baking.
- Optional: a drizzle of truffle oil or good extra virgin olive oil just before serving.
- For extra bite: scatter over a few toasted pine nuts.
Finish
- Bake hot, 250 °C oven, until the crust blisters and the cheese bubbles.
- Serve immediately, maybe with a handful of rocket for freshness.